Sunday, July 15, 2012

EZ3D PopUps Level 2 Lesson 1 Vertical boxes

EZ3D PopUps Level 2  Lesson 1 Vertical Boxes

Please read the previous post regarding Level 2 materials and techniques.  

Materials needed: Template, printer paper, craft knife, ruler and scoring tool.

Vertical box. Practice this first.
After practicing the first box, you will add a second
generation cut to create two box shapes.
Let's get started.  Click HERE to download the PDF template.  You will get two pages. One is the first generation cut with the directions on it.  Do that one first.  Cut the border away from the template and then score and cut according to the directions.

Slip your hand into the slot and bend
forward on the valley fold.

Slip your fingers behind the slots and bend the valley fold forward and crease. Also pinch forward the valley fold lines to the right and left of the slot.  Make sure the paper is creased only on the dotted lines.













Turn the paper upside down and repeat the procedure.








Keeping your hands within the slots, pinch the mountain (ridge) fold forward.  Make sure the paper is only bent on the lines.







Making sure that all the creases are folding in the right direction, fold the template flat,  firmly crease the folds and then pop up the paper.





The next diagram includes a second generation cut (which means you cut into a fold created by the first generation cut.)

Cut the border away from the template, score all the lines and then cut them.  Starting with the largest box first, follow the same procedure you used in the first template.  Then apply the procedure to the shorter box. Carefully close the card so that all the folds are going the right way, crease and then pop up the card.

Our next project will be creating a fun pop up card using what we learned today.  


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EZ3D PopUps Level 2 Materials and Techniques

EZ3D PopUps  Level 2  Materials and Techniques

In Level 1,  we explored Origamic Architecture basic cuts, using a pair of scissors.  Our projects always started with the paper folded in half to create the first fold. Because we used scissors and made parallel cuts into the folds, the depth and height of the objects were always equal.  To create the creases, we simply folded the flaps back and forth.

Now it's time to explore more complex patterns.  In most cases, the cuts will still be parallel, but not always exactly symmetrical and the depth and height may not be equal. We shall learn to score by indenting and "kiss cutting" the paper or card stock and executing more complex folds.

Tools needed: Template, cutting mat, ruler, scoring tool (bone folder, embossing tool, butter knife, or steel crochet hook,) and craft knife.


My favorite new scoring tool is a steel crochet hook.  I found a
pack of vintage crochet hooks at a thrift store for $1.  

A cutting mat of some kind is absolutely essential in all papercrafts involving craft knives.  However, if you can't afford to buy one, just make sure you have something under your paper when you cut, so you don't damage your table or desk.

A scoring tool can be anything that is narrow and can impress the paper or cardstock without cutting it.
My favorite new scoring tool is a steel crochet hook.

A ruler is important for scoring and for cutting long straight lines. When using a ruler for either scoring or cutting, place the ruler on the edge of the line, put the tool tip in the middle of the line and nudge the ruler up against the tool.  Move the tool to the other end of the line and nudge the ruler to it there too. Keep doing that until you have the ruler exactly where it needs to be and then use your tool.

A craft knife is essential!  Scissors are good for cutting away outside borders and making symmetrical cuts in folds, but once you get into asymmetrical cutting,  using scissors will more than likely result in inexact cuts.  My favorite craft knife of the moment is the Fiskar's Fingertip knife, pictured above. It's the one with the funny orange handle. It took some getting used to, but now I love it.

Paper and card stock.  Because cardstock is more expensive than printer paper, I always recommend practicing your cuts and folds on heavy printer paper. 24 or 28 lb paper is ideal for this, however 20 lb can work too.  It just a little flimsy and may not stand up by itself.

When scoring on paper, you can just use the indenting method (pressing on the dotted lines) and fold the paper in the direction it's supposed to go.  The paper is flexible enough to do that. You can't really kiss cut paper because it doesn't have the layers that card stock has.

When using card stock, you can use the indenting method too, but you may have to flip the card stock  over and indent from behind.  The obvious drawback to this is that you usually can't see where the lines are.  Some people mark the lines with tiny pinholes.  Another way is to indent all the ridge lines first, turn the paper over and indent them again on the back. When that is done, go back to the valley fold lines and score those.  The valley scores will want to go only forward and the ridge lines will be able to fold both ways.  If you are using 65 lb cardstock, you may be able to use a light box and be able to see the lines but I haven't tried that myself, so I don't know if that will work.


Kiss cutting is cutting the top layer of the card stock so it fold in a forward direction. It takes some practice to do it correctly.  Practice on a plain piece of card stock.  Use a ruler.  Use very little or no pressure and run the craft knife alongside the ruler. Then feel the paper - there should be a very light cut there.  Bend the paper so the cut opens slightly and lets the paper bend. Some people like to flip the craft knife upside down and use a little pressure.  Whatever works for you.

You may want to use a combination of indenting and kiss cutting. Indent for the long lines and kiss cut for the short ones. What ever works for you.



Contacting me: To leave a comment, click on the word Comments in the box below the post. All comments are approved by me before publishing. If you would like me to contact you directly, let me know that and include your e-mail address in the comment box. I do not publish comments with e-mail addresses, so your address is safe.


 If you enjoy collecting these patterns and don't want to miss one, PLEASE follow me by e-mail and add my e-mail address to your address book. Look for the red arrow in the right hand column. Fill in the e-mail box and click submit. Your e-mail address will never be sold or distributed or used for any reason other than sharing EZ3D content and news. If you have a Facebook account, would you please take a few seconds and like me on Facebook. Thanks so much and have fun!